The 8 Power Tools I Can’t Work Without

The Milwaukee cordless circular saw. An ideal cutting tool for quick needs.

Carpentry has a never ending list of power tools. 

The vast majority have a specific function, to complete a specific task.

In a recent conversation over a track saw, I was asked the importance of the tool, in regard to the operations of my business. 

And truthfully… I don’t need it.

The specific task that a track saw brings is limited to just making sure an absolutely straight cut is achieved. In one shot. Without relying too heavily on skill. Taking the pressure off of a mistake. 

But this can be done as easily with a circular saw. With a few extra steps, including a straight edge, producing the same results.

The conversation then turned from one of convenience, to one of needs. And if my circular saw was to ever stop working, then I would be in a world of problems.

Which is why I am giving you all a list of my…

8 Most Important Everyday Power Tools

1. Circular Saw 

A corded 7-1/4” Makita circular saw. Ideal for cutting a large amount of lumber, without worrying about power drop and getting the most power.

The first tool every person thinks of when it comes to carpentry.

It is the most versatile of them all. With a list of other various tools offering singular task, that can be performed by this tool alone… even if a bit more unsafe. This includes the mitre saw, table saw, and track saw, to name just a few.

When starting out, the carpenters I worked with relied so heavily on this one tool, that when on an unfortunate day that our only circular saw was stolen, we had to shut down for the day til a new one was purchased.

While the crosscut is one of the most used cases for this tool. There are more skills, that when developed, can make a single person an efficient machine. This includes rips, mitered bevels, planing, finished miters, and gang cuts.

This is also shares the ‘first tool’ recommendation spot, as one of the first power tools an apprentice should purchase. Since it is the most used, and also requires the longest time to build confidence around the trickier situations carpenters find themselves in.

Preference is always in the eye of the beholder, as any trained carpenter can make use of any circular saw. But between corded and cordless, both should be highly consider by the professional.

For the majority of my day to day as a repair carpenter, a cordless saw is the go to. Primarily because of its quick ease of use, and unlimited mobility. But when hired to a crew as a cut man, the corded saw wins for its increased power, as well as the convenience of never seeing power drop… followed by the search for a replacement battery.

While a 7-1/4” circular can handle ALL situations, there are also places for the smaller 4” and 6” circular saws. And even places for the 10” and 16” saws when tackling larger materials. But not required, to be a great carpenter.

The size difference between the 7-1/4” and the 16” circular saw. While a 7-1/4” is the most versatile saw, the 16” circular saw really comes in use for creating flush cuts on larger materials, or gang cutting piles of lumber.

2. Impact and Drill Drivers

A dewalt cordless impact driver. Perfect for small locations, but also for driving fasteners with little resistance from material.

This can arguably be the tool to battle for the #1 spot of this list.

Being my first purchase as an apprentice, that separated myself from the other grunts on the job site.

The reason for listing both the impact and drill driver, is that you can purchase these in combo kits for a good price. The drill driver can arguably be the one and done tool. It can do everything the impact driver does, and more. But the quick versatility, and compact body of an impact makes it just as important. Especially when in the professional world, you really start to notice how seconds turn to minute. Minutes turn to hours. And hours turn to days.

With the impact driver, providing mostly unlimited power to sink a fastener. 

With screws being an important aspect of carpentry, sometimes more than nails, it is a requirement to have these tools. And with the large variety of screws, you can see why most professionals will own multiples of this tool, reducing bit change out.

While combo kits are more affordable way to get into these drills, I would recommend the higher end kits.

The impact drivers come with speed adjustments. With the drill drivers including a hammer drill.

As time goes on, you will recognize the importance of all the drills on market. Not just in drill and impact drivers, but also stand alone hammer drills, SDS drills, and 1/2” impact drivers. But these drills offer stand alone functions, that on smaller scales can be replaced by a driver and impact drill.

The speed adjustments on an impact are comparable to the chuck adjustments on a drill. With less options to choose from, sticking primarily to three speeds to pick from. With the 2nd and 3rd option being the best option for driving fasteners. And the 1st option providing less torque to prevent stripping out screws. Such as cabinet screws, door knobs, etc.

The impact is not really a precision tool, as it is a convenience.

An impact driver is great for its quick ease of use.

For the drill driver, the more expensive options do come with more options for speed and torque settings.

But if there is one option that is great to have, in a more compact body, it is the hammer drill function.

The hammer drill function makes it possible to drill a hole into concrete.

While the common person may not have much need for this function, it is amazingly handy when required. As a professional, there are always opportunities that arise where fastening into concrete is needed. I could use a dedicated Hammer Drill or SDS Hammer Drill, but the drill driver fits easily in a work boxes. And for the occasional one or two holes that are needed, this is a quick option.

But if there is multiple holes required, I will generally lean on a SDS Hammer Drill. Being it is designed for larger applications. But its larger body, does not overtake the convince of a Drill Driver including this function.

Majority of the use for a drill driver, is for boring holes. Here a spade bit is being used to bore holes for metal balusters.

3. Oscillating Multi-Tool

Oscillating Multi-Tools are the key precision demo tool for a remodeling contractor.

You will hear so many names for this tool. Known in retail as a Oscillating Multi-Tool, you will also hear OMT, Fein tool, Oscillator, but for the majority of trades people I work with, we refer to it as a Multi-Tool.

But for whatever it goes by, this is the tool that is always by my side.

The Multi-Tool is a precision cutting tool. For repair work, this is primarily used for demo on already installed materials. When trying to remove delicate material that can break easily, like finer-jointed trim work, I will use this to cut the nails. If there is a tight spot where a metal bolt needs to be removed, this can allow me to reach for removal. It can make quick work of cutting drywall and PVC. Run through shingles for removal. And with a special sanding attachment, can help me smooth out smaller sections.

This is the most versatile tool in my arsenal. But it is not the most powerful.

This tool with the right blade attached, can do a good job at its task. But due to the blade being able to bend once plunged, can cause twisted or uneven cuts. To help with preventing this, it is recommended to cut materials slowly. Not applying pressure, but letting the blades do the work. Because the blades do not have a way to dispose of the dust created, like circular saw blades, the teeth of the blade will become clogged, making it harder for it to cut. By not applying unnecessary pressure, the blade can move the dust slightly easier. Another way to help assist with this, is to rock the blade side to side. Clearing dust out of the way. The downside is it can lead to cuts that stray from your intended needs. There are curved blades, that also help assist with clearing dust, but they are typically wider.

Other notes to know about the pressure applied, is the wear of the blade. If more pressure is applied, the blade will work harder. Causing the cuts to go quicker, but in exchange of a much quicker wear rate on the blade teeth. While it is difficult to memorize, manufacturers do state an oscillating speed to get the optimal speed for removing material, without applying a lot of pressure. This is important, as the cost of a single blade can range from $15-$25. And for how quick a blade can wear out, that is a huge cost for any homeowner, DIY, or professional to eat… though sometimes an added cost for the project, if you are a professional, where sometimes speed is a determining factor.

With even more uses than what is mentioned, this goes as one of the most important tools for a carpenter needs to possess.

There are various blades that can be used for an Multi-Tool. From standard wood removal blades, to metal cutting blades, shingle cutting blades, drywall blades, sealant removal, grout removal, sanding pads, and more. But for the most part, bi-metal or multi-use blades, along with metal cutting blades, are the standard blades carried on my trailer.

4. Reciprocating Saw 

Reciprocating saws, or sawzalls as you will hear carpenters call it sometimes, make demo work a breeze.

Every saw possess the power to demo. An oscillating multi-tool is ideal for precision cuts. A circular saw is ideal for quick and straight cuts, on flat surfaces. 

But none of these tools can replace the quick and efficient power of a Reciprocating Saw.

Sometimes referred to as a sawzall (coined by Milwaukee who first invented the tool), this is the equipment of choice, if material needs to be removed quickly, with little concern to the state of its appearance when used.

There is no doubt that a Recipicating saw will remove what is needed, with the correct blade used. On complete demo of structures, every hand on deck needs to be equipped. But what it brings in power, it loses in precision. The thin and long blades this tool uses are generally unwieldy on use, and leave behind a ragged cut. A slow start cross cut, can provide a decent line. With a more aggressive cut following to completion. But too fast of a start, will see the blade dancing inches away from the intended cut area.

And while it is mostly viewed as a demo tool, it can at times find its way to the assembly line. Where it can be used to finish the cut lines of stringers, or even used as a rough jig saw. These times are occasional, and when clean cuts are not required, but it does help to limit the need of additional tools by opting this saw in place of others.

Just like a multi-tool, the reciprocating saw has a large selection of blades. With demo blades, wood with nail blades, and metal blades being the main blades being used.

5. Angle Grinder

Angle grinders are a perfect tool for precision cutting of concrete and concrete products. One of those concrete products being fibre-cement siding. 

In my first year, I remember being told the importance of this tool was minimal. Why would a carpenter need a tool suited toward metal or concrete?

And the truth is… I actually use this tool a lot.

At its base use, this tool shines in every application not suited toward wood. Need to cut rusted heads on ledger bolt? Need to remove hundreds of protruding framing nails? How about cutting break lines into 3” thick concrete slabs for demo? Shortening those 2” brad nails to use for 1-1/4” applications? 

This tool does all of those things in seconds, with accuracy, that other tools can not.

There are also attachments for sanding and polishing purposes that are applicable to wood working.

But just like the hammer drill function on a drill driver, the use of this tool is over shadows by more dedicated saws, such as concrete saws, wet saws, bandsaws, and other larger tools with more power packed behind them. Where it shines in comparison to those others, is its smaller form and versatility. And even if at a starting level, comes in handy in a pinch.

Majority of the time in carpentry, a metal cutting blades really comes in handy for cutting larger rusted lag bolts, or cutting back hundreds of protruding fasteners, that otherwise would take a long time to remove other ways.

6. Nailers

Milwaukee Framing Nailer. One of the most reliable framing nailers on the market, but also the heaviest. 

Hammers are the universal sign of a carpenter. To the point that it is still believed that we are still firing nails from our hands at the speed of Larry Hayn. But today’s job site are decades away from that era. 

On today’s job site, there is a nailer for every application.

From attaching wood at every size. To attaching fiber-cement products. Shingles. Metal connectors. Concrete. If there is something that needs to be hung by a fastener, there is a tool for the job. And for the few applications where it is missing, it will most likely be here before you know it.

As for the bare essentials, I have narrowed it down to three specific nailers.

The Framer, the 18 gauge, and the 16 gauge.

For the first half of my decade into carpentry. These were the three nailers I carried. Starting with pneumatics, and eventually working my way to cordless versions of each one.

The framer was my very first one, as I was more involved with a pseudo-framing remodeling crew. For every application of structural work. This nailer could attached every piece of wood imagineable. And if followed by a great painter, could be used in limited finishing applications, if the nails are placed with skill and precision.

The next is the 18 gauge. This is for every finish trim application. For door and window casing. To base and quarter round. And even in light cabinet and woodworking spots. The nails provide the necessary holding power for most light weight applications, and when doubled with wood glue, provides an almost unbreakable bond.

And last, is the 16 gauge. With the 15 gauge nailer, as a competitor. The heads on these brad nails are wider. Giving better hold for applications such as door jambs, window jambs, fascia, soffit, and siding. Due to the nail heads being much bigger, it can take more work for a painter to fill the holes for a completely flawless look. But when the hold is solely dependent on the nail, these nailers are the choice. The reason for a 16 gauge over a 15 gauge, is the availability of the fasteners. Which 15 gauge nails are more limited in availability and size (at least in my local area), than 16 gauge.

For starting, I would lean on a pneumatic set up. The biggest upside to mind, is the cost is more affordable than the cordless options. The downside being

 a hose and tank are limiting in overall reach, and the drag of the hose. But this set up is built to be more robust and long lasting. Additionally, the guns are more easily repairable, then the cordless versions. But if saving time, or having the unlimited reach that comes with no hose, is a benefit for your needs, then cordless is the way to go. 

15 gauge, 16 gauge, 18 gauge, 18 gauge narrow crown, 23 gauge pin, and a framing nailer make up the setup of nailers commonly seen in my trailer.

7. Palm Sander

Most lumber, while sold as S4S, can always use another pass with an orbital sander to remove the minor imperfections missed during production, before install and priming.

There is nothing more satisfying than a smooth finished product. 

And there is nothing that can ruin the process of getting there, than doing it by hand.

A palm sander is one of those love or hate for most.

A hate, cause it can be one of the most boring task. But for myself, it is a love cause it is what polishes the final product. And if you can fade away into the process, with some good music with some noise canceling handphones, it is almost meditative.

There are multiple sanders out on the market. From foam contouring finish sanders. To larger 6” aggressive rotex sanders. Heavier but wider drum sanders. And smaller mouse sanders. But if there is one that always goes with me everywhere, it is cordless 4” palm sander.

There is almost a master class in how to handle and think of sanding. But for the basics, the idea is to work through the multiple grits of sandpapers. Starting with the lowest that you need (such as a 40, 60, or 80 grit), and then working through each grit til you get to a finished grit (180,220, 300, all the way up to 4000, and more). It all really depends on what the finish application will accept (primers, paints, stains, polishes), and what you or the client expect for the feel. 

For the starter, a corded palm sander with variable speed, is a good start. On heavier sanding projects, like painting kitchen cabinets, I will still use my corded palm sanders. This is due to my process involving working in a confined area, and a corded tool never suffers from power drop, or dead batteries. 

For the higher elevated exterior work, I prefer my cordless palm sanders. Which drops the cord for my flexibility in reach. 

But my rule of thumb, for which I use for all tools, is to use corded or cordless depending on the length of the process being performed.

Vacuum attachments for sanders really help with minimizing dust.  

8. Vacuum

Cordless vacuums make the clean up and dust collection on the jobsite just a little more enjoyable.

There is no better way to finish the job, than to leave it spotless.

The work performed is dirty. It’s messy. It creates mounds of dust. A broom and dust pan can be the beginning to the end. But nothing can perform as well as vacuum for a ‘never been here’ finish. 

Even as tool technology develops, more and more tools are coming equipped with options to adapt a vacuum, so that the dust is collected directly at the source. With some brands already making this top of mind in the tool development, and the trend presenting that other brands are following.

While a finish carpenter can rely on the dust they make blowing to the air, for most others the standard and expectation is too leave a space just as clean, if not more, than before the project began. And with so many different sized units available, it can be hard to decide where to start. 

When first starting, a 5 gallon wet/dry shop vac was my first choice. But I never noticed myself ever filling a quarter of the unit. The size of the unit also was cumbersome, and made difficult to move. Still owning the unit for heavier sanding applications only, it is only once a year that I ever find myself emptying it.

A client then introduced me to the smaller 2 gallon units. And this is where the sweet spot was found. Compact enough, to easily move around. And handled what a normal half day of normal work could produce. If there is one thing I would appreciate seeing on future units, is a shoulder strap, so that you can free one hand for application where you need to be on a ladder. And while there are smaller handheld units that could accomplish this, I wouldn’t want to invest my resources into sacrificing the size of the tank.

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These are the 8 power tools, my business would have a hard time operating without. 

Here are some bullet points on what I would like some people to understand:

• Brand does not matter. Get what works within your budget, and adapt. The prices and nicer brands do have consistencies and whistles that are great for the professionals, but this should not stop a regular person with occasional use from getting tools.

• Corded is great for consistent power. Cordless is better for speed.

• Do your research and listen to your gut. Not only for purchasing, but also for skill. Skill comes with time, and if you are going to attempt riskier moves with any of these tools, but your intuition says otherwise, then listen to yourself.  

A lot of what is mentioned above are just quick synopsis. All of these tools mentioned, could use a deeper dive into their uses, tricks, skill development, and the pros and cons of the varying brands and types. But hopefully this gives a better view into why I find these tools to be the most important in a carpenters arsenal.