Paint List
A list of preferred paints, primers, tips and tricks
My hands first entered the trades world through painting. Shortly following I found my passion for carpentry to be a bit stronger, but that doesn’t mean that painting is not a craft I enjoy.
As I tell everyone, I’m a carpenter first, painter second, and the rest is just along for the ride.
Because of my knowledge with painting and its accessibility to everyone, I am asked a lot of questions. I don’t want to claim that I know it all. The life of a tradesperson is always learning. But here is a list of some of the knowledge I have gathered over the years. As time goes on, I will be revisiting this to update.
Painting Topcoats - Interior
Unless noted, all topcoats are waterbased. Noted by brand - product name - use - additional information
Sherwin Williams - Cashmere - Wall
Sherwin Williams - Harmony - Wall
Sherwin Williams - ProMar 200 - Ceiling
Sherwin Williams - Emerald Trim Urethane - Trim/Cabinetry
Exterior Topcoats
Unless noted, all topcoats are waterbased. Noted by brand - product name - use - additional information
Sherwin Williams - Emerald - Siding and Trim
Sherwin Williams - Duration - Siding and Trim
Duration has higher than normal mildew inhibitors, and is my preferred for structures with higher than normal vegetation growth. This paint is thicker than most paints and has a hard time spraying through most units. Read the PDS for instruction on how to use, if spraying. But on most occasions, I only brush and roll this product.
Sherwin Williams - Emerald Trim Urethane - Doors and Windows
Sherwin Williams - Latitude - Siding and Trim
On occasion, if the above siding and trim paints are out of stock or there is not a base available, I will use Latitude, which is a higher end mid-range paint with good work ability.
Primers
Noted by brand - product name - type of primer - use - additional information
Zinsser - Cover Stain - Oil - wood and metal
This is an all around good oil primer to keep on hand, is my go to for most applications. With a one hour dry time, I am able to continue on a project with no additional days.
Oil primers have a tendency to tack or gum up over time. By mixing a little mineral spirits to the material, you can get a smoother finish. If this option is taken, I would recommend mixing the primer and solvent in a separate work container, and do not recycle any unused material to original primer can. I have noticed that by doing this, it separates the binders in the primer and can cause trash/junk to form in the original can.
Sherwin Willaims - All Surface Enamel Oil Primer - Oil - Wood and Metal
My all time favorite oil primer. Also with a one hour dry, but this product has been hard to come by in my area lately. Reason for being my favorite, is the primer keeps a smooth and fluid workability that does not gum up and need to be cut with mineral spirits. It is pricey, but by far the best for a smooth primer application.
Sherwin Williams - Exterior Oil-Based Wood Primer - Oil - Wood
The strongest oil based primer I know of. Depending on the exterior project, if time allows, and if rot, large case of mildew, or carpenter bees are the issue, I will use this primer. The downside is that it has a 24 hour drying period. If all sides of the wood need to be primed, then expect 48 hours of drying time to properly prime.
Sherwin Williams - Problock Oil Primer - Oil - Interior Cabinetry or Wood Trim
A one hour dry time oil primer. What I like about this one is its ability to easily be sanded but still hold some durability. For a good smooth finish, I will generally apply at minimum two coats, so that I do not sand through to the bare substrate.
Sherwin Williams - White Pigmented Shellac Primer - Shellac - Knot holes, Water Stains, Cabinetry
My favorite primer to use for sealing areas that will cause bleeding or staining, such as wood knots, and water stains in wood and drywall. It is also an ideal cabinetry primer, as it has a 15 minute dry time and sands to a fine powder to get the best finish.
The downsides to shellac primer, is that it is the most expensive primer out there, involves a different solvent for cleaning (denatured alcohol), and can have a very strong smell on application. While not necessarily a downside, this product is also very much like water to work with. This can make brush and roller applications messy, but works amazingly in sprayers.
Zinsser - BIN Shellac Primer - Shellac - Knot holes, Water Stains, Cabinetry
Alternative to the above shellac, but is carried by most big box stores.
There is also a spray can version that is sold, which is great for those quick knot hole and water stain issues.
Sherwin Williams - Extreme Bonding Primer - Latex - PVC, Exterior Doors, Vinyle Windows
Used on hard to adhere surfaces. This gives a base coat that will give topcoats something better to grab on to. It is pricey but very durable. If there is one tip to give along with this, is to give a scuff sand to the substrate to add a little more tooth for the primer to adhere to. While this primer works good on its on, if the surface is hit hard enough, I have seen it peel off.
Sherwin Williams - Multi-Purpose Primer - Latex
Kilz - Premium 3 - Latex
Good all around latex primers with a fairly high build. I do not use latex primers a lot but do keep a small quart around for when the opportunities present myself. If there is one place I do use this, it is on exterior fiber-cement materials, since oil primers will cause the materials to deteriorate.
PVA - Latex - Drywall
Used on unprimed drywall. I do not have a brand I stick to, as they all seem the same. My local Sherwin Williams only sales this by the 5 gallon, but the big boxes sell individual gallons.
One thing to note. Unlike most latex primers, it is ideal to clean out your work pots after each session instead of leaving them to dry. This product dries hard and is not flexible, leading to cracking, which can put junk/trash into other products used in that same work pot.
