Doors and Windows are Special - Things to know before painting

The most preferred way of handling jobs is with a good work container, solid and stable brushes, and the right paint materials.

They essentially let the indoors and outdoors give a glimpse to one another.

Yet most painters treat these areas as if they are no different from the rest of the house. Exterior of the house gets exterior paint. Interior gets interior paint. The colors should have a flow to them, but the paint material matters most.

This why such a special item on a house, really deserves a special product when painted.

These stained wooden double doors are still in great shape for being over 20 years old. But from the sun and use, the doors are in need of an update.

Rather it is wood, vinyle, or metal. It is not enough to slap a latex primer or latex paint on. If you have ever applied a latex to these surfaces, then you know how common it is for the painted surfaces to stick to other surrounding surfaces. Even after it appears to have dried over.

For latex, there is a rule of thumb to ‘break the bond’ for 72 hours, at least twice a day.

Even then, latex paint is not thoroughly cured until 30 days after application. On top of that, latex has a texture that is like rubber, which will lead to grabbing anyway. This is extremely frustrating, as most homeowners forget to break the bonding. Eventually leading to windows becoming stuck. And imperfect doors that have had paint peel off.

Due to weight and time, the doors are painted in place. Along with sanding the entire doors to promote adhesion and smooth out the worn down areas, the doors received a coat of Zinoil primer.

The answer I have found for this issue, is to stay away from latex based products for doors and windows.

At one point, I had made a change in my painting materials. Based on research and just becoming preference. It wasn’t until I had taken on a project of painting a client’s entire collection of windows and doors, that I was reminded of the differences between latex and my preferred materials.

The client had a left over gallon of latex that was still good. Not enough to complete the project, but enough to save the client some money. Once the paint was used up, I had switched over to my preferred paint.

The preferred being Sherwin Willaims Urethane Trim Enamel.

Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is my go to for all wooden building products where high use is important and for a great finish.

After day one, I had noticed the latex paint was bonding and peeling paint off. Where on the contrary, the enamel would dry to the touch in the same amount of time, and remained unable to bond to other surfaces.

Another benefit, is that when the latex paint would peel, it would continue to pull additionally adhered material. Not for extended lengths, but the latex wanted to remain with itself. Where as with the enamel, I have yet to witness peeling.

For the past couple years, I have been using enamel for painting cabinets and furniture. Mostly for its durability and smooth finish.

It wasn’t until I noticed the exterior rating on the can, that I had begun using it for exterior applications over the last year. For which I have been extremely surprised with the outcome. And to top it all off, it is water based.

Finished double door with two coats of enamel.

If there is any downside, it is that enamel is not a thick topcoat.

Nor does it span any distances. Even micro cracks, that latex is very good at sealing. So if there is any imperfections or junk in the substrate, expect for this topcoat to not hide it and need additional attention before application.

As for windows and doors, since this is a used unit on a house, I would put effort toward making them look the best they can be. Along with using the best product I know available, to protect and make them stand out.

Painting a double french door from bare wood to two coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim Urethane Enamel